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Halo 3 Forum > Off-topic > Complete Off-Topic > Cars |
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,532 | Just need some help/advice from a couple people who have a lot of knowledge with car audio. I need some help finding 2 door speakers and rear speakers both 6 1/2 inch. I'm going to go with this sub http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...lay=JBL&tp=112 And I was wondering if I should go with 2 amps 1 for the sub and 1 for the speakers, whatever you guys think is better and the least expensive. Thanks in advance.
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| | If you have a factory deck, just use the power from that to power the door speakers. If you have an aftermarket deck, you could do the same because it is the cheapest route. You could run two amps. If you run 2 amps, I would suggest 4ga from the battery to a capacitor. Then 4ga to the distribution block. Then from the distribution block I would run 8ga to the amps. You can't really have someone choose door speakers for you because it is all about personal preference. People can suggest stuff for you to look at, but they all have different qualities. Companies like MB Quart have a habit of being "tinny" on the highs. Look through JBL's selection of full range speakers and see if anything interests you. You could go with a component set up front, but they tend to cost more then standard coaxials. But they offer better sound quality and sound direction then standard coaxials. I'm a big fan matching speakers, and matching electronics. Mainly because the same manufacturer will have the same tonal qualities throughout the audio spectrum. With electronics (amps, signal processors, etc), I like them to match just because they seem to work together better. So the end choice is really up to you. First thing you ALWAYS do when thinking about car audio, is to figure your budget. That is the VERY first thing anyone should do when thinking about car audio. | |||||
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| | Don't buy the JBL it's crap don't buy a capacitor, they're worthless run 2 amps, 1 for the sub and 1 for the speakers build your own enclosure, pre-made boxes are the worst thing you can do when installing a subwoofer in your car Midget is right about personal preference, go to your local car audio shop and listen to some and read as many reviews as you can | |||||
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| | if I was doing a new install in my car I'd buy these http://www.audioque.com/aq/SDC2_5_Series.htm They make monster equipment and will definitely poo on JBL, Kicker, RF or any of the mainstream sub brands | |||||
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| | Quote:
How is a capacitor worthless?!?!?!?! I have never in my life heard this. I would LOVE to hear your argument on this. WOW. And your argument on JBL being crap is personal preference. I have a friend who is a rep for the Harmon Group, but I am in no way bias. I will admit before they changed the head of the design and engineering staff that their amps were crap, but since the new head came on, they have improved 10 fold. But once again, the only thing I can say is you will need to hear each sub in their respective boxes to get a good feel for what you want. I suggest going to Best Buy or Circuit City and playing with their display stuff if you need to. And for the record.....I have NEVER heard of that company............ | |||||
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| | I didn't think you would have heard of this company BUT, if you live in the Car Audio world and follow it like some people follow MLG you would have heard about them plenty. A Capacitor is worthless because it doesn't do anything. It's just one more thing your alternator has to charge. All they do is hide the symptoms of an inadequate charing system (alternator and battery) It's also not an argument, just the way it is About going to Best Buy or Circuit sh.tty and listening, they're all in pre-fab boxes and will sound like ass | |||||
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| | Quote:
And as far as living in the car audio world, I used to. But I still follow the trends and products. The installer / fabricator that I pretty much apprenticed under works for East Coast Audio Concepts. They are responsible for Bill Woods Zapco / JL / Kimber Kable VW Beetle. As well as many other cars that have place highly in many SQ competitions for many different sanctioning bodies. I also helped design one of their DB Drag vehicles. The company you posted is not known by anyone I know of. It does not mean they are not good. I was just saying I know nothing of them. If it was Diamond, or Audison, or Zapco, or even Focal it would ring a bell. All of which are companies I have either owned or played with. I've been doing this for 14 years. I am sure I forgot more about 12 volt theory then you will learn. I am not trying to be an asshole. But EVERYTHING you have said, has gone against conventional car audio knowledge. AND you post a company neither I or any of my installer friends have heard of. :/
__________________ Last edited by AMidgetAndAClub; 07-01-2008 at 10:38 AM. | |||||
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| | I can't show you a competition set up that doesn't use a capacitor OR an upgraded charging system since most knowledgeable competitors will tell you to upgrade the charging system as it is the most important part of a system. I appreciate your knowledge but I've always been told not to use a capacitor. It holds a charge yes but if your alternator and battery can't supply the juice fast enough then they need to be upgraded. Have you ever heard of DD (Digital Designs) I ask because brands I have respect for aren't main stream sell outs. They aren't in the business solely to make money like Kicker, Rockford or JL. They are underground companies who do what they do to be the best at competitions. You won't find the brands I respect on your local car audio dealers shelves. Last edited by XGC Jangles XS; 07-01-2008 at 01:48 PM. | |||||
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| | alright well I probably came off a little strong Midget I wasn't attacking you in all of this and a cap CAN help on a small system but for the price of a cap you could buy a small kinetik Hc 600. I've just never been a fan of them to be honest but if you think you need something like that then do what you gotta do | |||||
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